Thoughts of the last 2 months
The highlight of my last week in town is that I finally got 4 neighbors to mumble “good morning” in Russian as they hurried past me. I don’t feel as socially isolated as before. OK, so it took 2 months for them to warm up. The mothers walking their kids to school still stare at me with suspicion but the kids now smile cautiously as they dodge around the mud filled puddles in the street. I am hoping that better weather in the summer will bring more people outside and maybe they will realize I don’t have pointed ears and a forked tail. The kids from the school classes have no problem hailing me on the street with a loud “Rob” but then the other pedestrians stop and look to see who the kids are talking to in English. I really have to pick up more Russian phrases but I don’t think I will ever be able to carry on more than a stumbling conversation using Google Translate. I spend some time in the evening memorizing useful phrases but they are gone or all jumbled up by the morning. Those who speak Russian to me do what I am training myself not to do - rapid speech with slang. Slavic languages are also guttural but I am getting over the automatic reflex that they are sounding angry.
I keep bumping into a Moldovan cultural habit where one offers, for instance, chocolate to someone and they turn it down. Then if you offer it a second time, they will grab it. I have been told that because you worked for this ‘treat’ it is yours but also there is a suspicion that the receiver will be obliged to the giver. That having been said, if one gives a student a chocolate bar then they are expected to share it with their friends and family. How does this work again, please? I do know that I reflexly paid for tickets for a dolphin show in Bulgaria and then coffee/tea afterward and this was commented on to others with a little anxiety. I heard about it 2 days later. If I invited someone and their child out for a spontaneous, casual pizza (you know, chow and some chat) would this be interpreted as a marriage proposal? I will find out when I return.
I am trying to be a good tourist in spite of the cultural, financial and age differences. The attitude of losing the power or WiFi and getting a response of “It’s Moldova” with a shrug makes me grind my teeth quietly because anyone in North America or Europe would have held someone accountable. It must be a Soviet relic. My Social Security check is about 10 times what a Moldovan nurse makes and I am very aware of this. But, buy a big sack of placenta (yes, this is spelled correctly) or chocolate and put it in the middle of the table for anyone to gnosh on and it might compost. There is a huge reluctance to accept anyone else’s ‘treat’. I am getting tired of eating by myself in the evening but I am not sure how to invite someone for eats and talk without a feeling of obligation. I do not comment loudly about the low cost of living but I know the store clerks notice that I buy prepared food, high end kitchen appliances, and bedding. It is costing me about $500 USD per month for everything and this would cost 5 or 6 times this in the USA. But cars and computers are the same price as in the USA. Most age groups think the most difficult thing that Americans have to do is get out of bed in the morning and find their way to the swimming pool where they spend the rest of the day. I have given the financial reality talk several times but they don’t believe me.
It was pointed out to myself and the other American that we would need extensions as our 90 day tourist visa was closing or had expired. So, I got out the check list, which was in Romanian, and got originals and copies of my apartment lease, proof that the landlord owned the apartment, employment contact and 4 other things - all notarized and blessed. I also paid the American Embassy $50 on my VISA card to certify I was not a felon. Made my third trip to the Immigration Department and a nice lady went through the list. I was then directed to the person who figured out my fine for being 4 days late (you have to apply 30 days before your tourist visa expires) and then returned to the original person with my receipts. Thank God Svetlana was there translating. The clerk then asked me to prove that I could support myself. This was not on the list but I had printed out my bank accounts, gave them to her and you could just see that she was annoyed that I had them. She will now give the package to the next desk and they will decide by April 24th. I kept wondering if I was going to be told there was a way to make me their friend.
ReCent Posts






