East is east and west is west...
There is a friendship behaviour called the Wall Theory. North Americans introduce themselves with a very low wall, so initially they are very friendly and approachable and the relationship is open but superficial. The wall gets higher with time and the closer one gets to becoming a friend, with more privacy hurdles and less independence. Europeans, on the other hand, begin with a high wall and so are initially reserved, but the closer you come to being a friend, the personal details are easier to elicit and so the wall becomes lower.
So I breeze into the local deli to pick up some dinner and meet the young female cook and the older female retail clerk who is also present. After 4 or 5 weeks, I got the younger cook to smile but I think she is more amused by the idiot grin on the face of the mentally challenged foreigner. The older clerk maintains the 2 scowl lines between her eyebrows. As I am stumbling through RussoRomanian phrases, I get the impression that they do not want to offend me by correcting my language skills. I walk in the next evening and it is like starting over again as they seem to react like they had never seen me before. I think the girls do not want to be viewed as ‘easy’. (At my age I an entitled to call any female 20 years younger than me a girl). They do not maintain eye contact, I am told, because that is culturally interpreted that she is ‘interested’ in the male and it may lead to a situation where she cannot extract herself. It has been a long time since the ladies found me dangerous. It is going to be interesting to see how they react when I return after a 1 month absence.
So how does one explain the pedestrians on the town streets? How about the staring without being caught staring? If I do catch them staring, I will nod to them and after a shocked pause that they were caught, they will faintly nod back. It has taken 8 weeks to get some verbal acknowledgement from fellow apartment dwellers but I have seen 3 adult students on the streets who have no problem talking to me. Now how am I going to get accepted by the rest of the citizens? I believe the behavior is a remnant of the 70 years of Soviet influence in which any unfamiliar person was potential trouble and one could only rely on tested and true family or someone with a proven past. An additional thought is that any nail which sticks up gets pounded down and they don’t want any association with a potential nail. Things should get better with the warmer weather and longer daylight bringing people out into the park just around the corner. I don’t think a lone male loitering in a park has the same connotation as in the USA.
Svetlana and her family have really incorporated me into their group with invitations for dinner, birthday parties and family vacations in Bulgaria. She has been associated with foreign volunteers at her school for at least 10 years and so her group is used to the variety that has been cycling through. They are all welcoming and gracious and try to include me in their goings-on with advanced charades. If something occurs that I don’t understand, I will question Svetlana later and then listen very hard to what she is saying. I think her response is based on how I asked the question as the answer is always nice and tactful. I know there is a fair amount of discussion about my observations amongst the group. I am fairly sure that if I made a social mistake she would laugh it off but she is keeping score. I wonder when I will hit the tipping total and get expelled from the school?
Birthdays are big family blow-outs here with the birthday boy setting up his own party and arranging for the designated drivers that are necessary afterwards. Infants to grandmothers and godparents are all included. Everyone is very civilized even with the drinking. I am glad I can hold my liquor.
The family vacation to Bulgaria was momentous. A crowded van with all the luggage, along 2 lane roads that needed repair and through multiple villages in Moldova, Romania and then Bulgaria. Varna, Bulgaria is on the coast of the Black Sea and has been a recorded settlement back to at least the Dacians. With beautiful gold tinted sand, it is a clean city that has preserved pedestrian promenades and parks, and friendly citizens who generally speak English. Although the people are very approachable, they all walk around looking like they are scowling and so I classified them into 1 line, 2 lines or 3 lines between their eyebrows. Stayed in an AirBNB for a week owned by a lady from Mexico. The city has preserved the archeologic finds from the past with glass covered excavations in the pavement and an explanation in 3 languages - Roman roads and baths, and headstones from graves dating back to the Greeks, all with translations. The archeologic museum is well worth the $2.50 admission. This is where the Russians go for a inexpensive summer holiday by the sea and there are apartment blocks going up all over to accommodate them. Further down the coast is Sunny Beach, Bulgaria and the adjacent town of Nessebar which has a Christian church site on one arm of the bay that dates from 432 AD. So it must have been built about the time Christianity became the local religion (Constantine and all that). I am going to try to return in the summer because I hear the girls party and drink all night and then spend the day on the beaches recharging their batteries so they can do it again that night. I probably don’t have the liver nor stamina for much of that, however.
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