Day 3
I slept all night and the hotel had a huge breakfast buffet. A large group of Chinese engineers were staying at the hotel and they spoke English. They were looking into improving the roads in the countryside. The guide showed up about 10AM and we were off.
The guide was a 31 year old school teacher who taught himself IT well enough to work in Russia for 2 years before returning to the village of his birth. But he did not want to be a farmer. Interesting. He makes about $200 per month as a teacher and then moonlights as a guide or IT person. His household water comes from a well. Everyone knows the river is polluted to the point there are no fish but the ground water for the wells is also polluted with industrial waste to about 60 feet below the surface. He seemed content to only run the water through a particulate filter and there are no labs for testing the water.
It seems there are 2 political parties in Moldova, those who want a form of communism and association with the Russians and those who want to join the European Union. There is nothing in the middle.
The main street through Chisinau is Strada Stephan cel Mare and he is a national hero and a saint. See his statue above. His was a long lifetime of intrigue between the Turkish sultancy, the Hungarians, the princes of Poland and the Ukraine, and the princes of various other kingdoms I vaguely remember such as Wallachia. I think Stephan is great because he lasted so long but the people today seem to think he was well thought of in his time by his subjects. I still think the peasants got chewed up in the middle of the intrigues and battles. Most of the monuments and statuary around the city seemed to have been put in place about 1880 and 1920, and then torn down and revised with Soviet designs in 1950’s and then redesigned in 1991 when the Soviets left and Moldova became independent. Large numbers of Moldovans were transported to Siberia and Ukrainians were imported into the country to replace them but the people I spoke to about this are vague. Thus the cemeteries have a large number of Ukrainian names. The large military cemetery in Chisinau was built in the Soviet era and the faces of the statuary are all Slavic and only the last face in the row is what I would call Moldovan.
A picture of The Triumphal Arch, above, dates from 1840 when the Russian Empire forces beat the Ottoman forces. The bell in the tower is cast from the captured Ottoman cannon.
I went to a street vendor to buy some gifts to take home. I had fun negotiating for peasant blouses in Russian or Moldovan. Eventually someone who spoke French intervened and this was something I could stumble my way through. It seemed the lady at the market selling the blouses thought my wife was about 4 ft 6 and 80 pounds and she was having trouble with the size. Got that sorted out. I went into several computer stores. The Moldovan area is noted for skillful programmers who work cheaply but the computers are very expensive. Everyone has a cell phone but they carry them in a pocket instead of the Seattle salute of carrying it in a hand. I went into a butcher shop and was informed there that there were no BBQ grills one could take home and they were only found in restaurants. Tried again at a store selling BBQ forks, spatulas and tongs as well as grilling baskets. Again, they did not know of a place to buy a grill. Then found out that grills were available but they heated them with wood. Suddenly had a desire for BBQed ribs.
The people in the downtown area seem law abiding - no jaywalking, no cars running stop lights, no horns, and cross walks are absolutely safe. But there are some serious tailgaters.
The girls/women are very stylish dressers. Never saw women with sweat pants though the occasional guy wore them. The males generally wore jeans without holes. The women had good makeup skills and excellent posture. No visible tattoos and no piercings. Lots of single women with single 5 year old kids at dinner last night. I did not believe they were babysitting.
The farmers market was advertised to me as local and organic only. Welllll, lots of imported produce and it was the same as we have but the local organic apples were scabby, The over all cost seemed about 60% of what we would pay.
There is an interesting form of private transportation other than busses and cars. A small privately owned bus called a routiera circles on a given route. One flags it down and jumps on because they can see the route on a hand labelled piece of cardboard in the front window. One then alerts the driver and jumps off, leaving about 50 cents somewhere on the dashboard. Sometimes these busses are jammed. This morning, I saw a very stylish girl jump on a packed bus and because there was no other space, not even standing room, she hopped into this guy’s lap. Well I travelled on 2 of these crowded busses today and the girls took a quick look at me and chose another lap. Very disappointing.
ReCent Posts






